Glue, bezel or prong: how stones are set in fashion steel rings

In fashion stainless steel jewellery the stone seat is cast as part of the ring, and the stone is glued into it. It is the fastest and lowest-cost method, and done properly it is secure for everyday wear.

How glue setting works

• The seat is cast to match the underside of the stone. For faceted stones it is usually conical, following the stone's pointed base.
• The ring is polished and plated first, then each stone is glued in and checked to sit level.
• Seat size is fixed by the mould, so the stone size is fixed too.

What you can change on the same mould

• Stone colour in the same size and cut: birthstones, clear, black or mixed sets.
• Stone material in the same size, for example cubic zirconia instead of glass for more sparkle.
• Cabochon colour, such as cat's eye, opal-look or turquoise-look, in the same size.

What needs a new mould

• A larger, smaller or differently shaped stone.
• Changing a faceted stone to a cabochon or the other way round, because the seat shape changes.
• Switching to bezel, prong, pavé or channel setting.

When another setting is worth it

• Bezel setting: a metal rim wraps the stone; the most secure option, good for rings that are worn hard.
• Prong setting: claws hold the stone and let in more light, so large faceted stones sparkle more.
• Pavé or micro setting: many small stones form a sparkling surface, typical of higher price points.
• These settings change the seat structure, so they usually need a new mould and cost more per piece.

Why stones come loose, and how we prevent it

Most loose stones come from uneven seats, excess or too little glue, or hard knocks. We check every stone for level seating and clean glue lines before packing. If your customers are especially active, ask about a bezel version.